Chef Vivi

Im way beyond behind on posts. I came back from a mini vacation and a lot of time with in laws to hundreds (380 to be exact yikes) of google reader posts to catch up on and that seemed more exciting than writing my own. But then I went to dinner again at our new favorite restaurant in Sao Paulo (which just so happens to be right up the street from our house, lucky us) and I thought, I must brag about this place! Its teeeny tiny so make sure you call about a reservation before coming over, but I just love it. The chef, Vivi is as wonderful as her culinary expressions. Having left Brazil more than 10 years ago, she spent time in Asia and Europe learning and cultivating her specialties. The menu changes daily according to what is available in the garden and in season and I think I fell quickly in love because it reminded me of some of our favorite spots in Chicago that were very much the same.

So heres my little postinho telling the Paulista's out there to give her a try. It is definately a bit pricey but then again I am so jaded by what a typical dinner for two costs these days with such extreme over pricing in this city that it may not shock you to pay more than 60R for a typical dish. Either way, I feel its worth the splurge every once in a while.

Chef Vivi
Rua Girassol, 833 - Vila Madalena 

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” – Mae West

Happy 1 year brazilanniversary to us (thanks Danielle for this very appropriate diction)! It feels like yesterday and then again many years ago. But when our feet hit the ground in this wonderful country 365 days ago we were running sideways, forwards and backwards all at the same time. I took up this blog as a way to remember our journey and share our many experiences with family and friends but it has also been therapy for the sometimes tough but usually beautiful moments we've had trying to get a grip on it all. I thought I grew up a lot after college but I didn't realize that was minuscule in comparison to this past year abroad. A and I are both in a place in our lives where we are trying to figure out our future professionally in the midst of new career paths and zip codes (CEP codes to be exact) and we have been tested, tried and sometimes brought to tears. But there is nothing like a journey with your partner, one year of marriage down and one common adventurous goal checked off the life list for us both.

The good news is the first year of anything is always the hardest and if you go by visual imprint only, I'd say we had it pretty good thus far. We've seen the most incredible waterfalls in Iguazu, beaches in the north, two fabulous carnivals of completely different scale in Tiradentes and Rio respectively, the incredible landscape of the Pantanal, a few trips to Buenos Aires and lots of amazing things in between. We've met wonderful people and made lifelong friends and that is just the beginning.

The bad news is that I miss country music and chocolate chips. But in learning to manage, I've gladly replaced both with bossa nova and every fruit you can imagine and then some you can't. It sounds healthier if you forget that I also pretended like I discovered steak and cheese bread for the first time and together they bought a not-so-luxurious duplex apartment in my stomach and butt; eviction notices ignored.

What a year, so here's a few things we've learned so far...


-the mule travel system is sacred and its important to happily inform any visitor they will probably have to dodge fed ex for a month prior to departure and carry another duffle down just for us. 


-how best to spend an entire afternoon and evening eating. just eating. and enjoying eating. and talking about eating. and thats on sunday. every sunday. 


-that the gym is not just for working out your muscles, but more importantly your vocal chords and your spandex collection. 


-that in every crowd of brazilians there is always a Bruno and a Leticia so if you can't remember anyone's name best try those first. 


-ha, you thought NY was expensive. 


-drop crotch pants are the new skinny jean, for some reason a la crotch extends down to your knees. i dont understand it. men and women both. its terrible. 


-the farmers markets here rule. 90 cents for 20 bananas? ill take it. it makes all the other expensive things feel better. well not really i lied about that last statement but i like farmers markets. 


-novelas are awesome and thats a fact. 


-i get to kiss (on the cheek) a lot of people and i like it.


-nothing like a coffee after breakfast, lunch and dinner. and you get a cookie too. bonus!


-my butt's gotten bigger but my bikini bottom's gotten smaller? fact of life. (As Carmen Miranda said, "Look at me and tell me if I don't have Brazil in every curve of my body")


-get over yourself and show more skin. americans are way to demure.


-louis vuitton is apparently the stamp of approval you've made it. brazilians are obsessed with this brand more than any other. 


-nothing is ever on time. you are never late. there is always traffic to blame and generally people are very forgiving. its both a blessing and a curse.


-cab drivers are your friends. they don't believe in a plexiglass separator it would be insulting. when i use the same one over and over we kiss and hug like long lost pals. 

-Brazil is beautiful and I can´t wait to spend more years here!

Ahh the stage is set and the adventure continues.

beijos

Ohh thats braziliant

In preparation for our upcoming voyage to the Pantanal next week we just found out we needed yellow fever vaccinations. Yes, we probably should have known that but I guess since its not exactly the Amazon I didn't think to research. Anyways my mother in law is coming down for a few weeks and we are all going to these beautiful wetlands for the big 4 day holiday around the corner. With a yellow fever vac, you need 10 days for it to settle in before you might need its all mighty medical powers so basically today was the last day I could get it done. So here is a little story about how my mother in law and I both received our vaccine, hers in Chicago and mine in Sao Paulo.

MIL: Finding out at the last minute before her trip, frantically she calls the doctor to get an appointment. Luckily they had one available the next day. She goes in, waits over an hour to see the nurse, finally gets into the little patient room, chats with the nurse (probably hitting the two hour mark here) and is informed that not only does she need the yellow fever vaccine but she also needs malaria pills. The nurse had over 50 pages of diseases and problems that could occur and basically asked her, you sure you want to go? Um was there a choice? She finally receives the shot and a prescription for the pills. When she goes to check out she finds out insurance doesn't cover this and has to pay over 400$ for both the vaccine and the pills (which mind you according to travel websites you really don't need malaria pills but you know how over the top better safe than sorry american doctors are). She's now very upset at both the cost and the now half day spent at the doctors office.

Me: I inquired about where to get a vaccine on a newcomers facebook page, immediately was given a very helpful website found here to locate your 'vaccine posto' nearest to your neighborhood. Nervous it could take all day I took a cab over and was embarrassed at how close it was to where I live. 8R later I walked into a big building with a blue sign that read VACINAÇÃO and found a room much like the DMV. There was a man by the ticket dispenser (to receive a number and wait) and clearly his job was to dispense tickets from the already automatic machine and answer questions. He told me I didn't need a ticket (ohh how nice) and that I should go down a hallway to a room on the right. Inside sat two nurses at a table and no one else. I told them I needed a yellow fever shot and they asked if I had a passport number or RJ (resident card) which I had neither with me. They mulled it over for a min then decided that was ok and I just gave them my name and address. Literally 2 seconds later the nice little nurse sat me on a chair, whipped out a shot, administered it and gave me some instructions that I gave a smile nod to even though I had no idea what she was saying. I asked how much? They smiled and waved me off and said "free." Within 10 minutes I was saying thank you to mr. ticket dispenser and out the door I went. 

The first thought that came to mind... Ohh, thats braziliant*!! (happy dance)

*I give credit to the very funny Born Again Brazilian blogger who discovered this fabulous adjective! I even found you can buy a t-shirt with the above logo here! 

Hello 'hollywood'

My bull rider loving cousin of the west coast informed me about a very good looking Paulista in the championship bull riding competition this weekend in Las Vegas. So I wanted to cheer him on and dutifully agree that yes Mel hes quite the hottie! While hes becoming one of my special interests he listed his as soccer, team roping and surfing. A true Brasileiro.

Good Luck Guilherme Marchi nicknamed "Hollywood." Ill make sure my televisão is turned on for your show... Im a guna file this one under nourishment... =)

The way the DR. should be

With almost a year under our belt, I finally decided to take a few friend's recommendations and get a doctor. And this is not your average stethoscope trotting white coat wearing man of the infirmary, this guy is Pele´s medicó! Boo-ya sickness and health my knees are going to shine like a hall-of-fame national hero!

Our first consultation was akin to meeting up with an old friend at their house. His office is in one of those big beautiful old coffee planation houses on Avenida Brasil and minus the secretaries at the entrance I climbed the granite stairs to the second floor and went straight into his comfy office. In true brazilian fashion I was offered coffee, water  and fresh squeezed juice.  He greeted me wearing jeans, loafers and a t-shirt and we got to business while he ate some lunch.

What I loved most about the experience was the lack of paperwork involved. He had his computer set up with an online form that we filled out together. He went through family history and basically every part of the body head to toe asking about issues and problems past and current. He also gave me a nice lecture about eating right and living a stress free life.  Happy minds = Healthy minds and I was advised to get to the beach and relax as often as possible. I'll take that prescription any day! He was also plugging his book, which talks a lot about mind over matter of which below there is a photo with Pele and his little health bible. After our 2.5+ hour chat we went to another room in his office for the checkup. From eyes to toes to ekg's and blood draws he tested for anything and everything. I came with allergy questions and left feeling like if anything was wrong well beyond my recent aversion to the pollution, he would get to the bottom of it.

Before going in for the blood draw I noticed my name on a list with just about everything checked off. Strange, but he reminded me it was standard procedure. 31 viles of blood later I practically fainted in the lounge chair. I wish I was kidding but this guy tested for EVERYTHING. I guess that is normal? I just kept telling myself if the guy apparently treats a world phenomenon he knows what he's doing so I am awaiting the file cabinet of results.

In sum, I am impressed and happy to finally have a doc here. Its those little big things that help with adapting in a new place. It is quite common in Brazil for the doctor to give you their email, home and cell phone numbers to be available at your disposal. During our almost 4 hour appointment he was answering many a text message from his clients... over 5000 of them. Clients that is but I would imagine over the course of a flu season he hears from all of them. Most of the time he can even cure common illnesses over the phone and then send a motoboy to fetch your prescription at any hour of the day, any day of the week. Super bonus!  It wasn't a cheap consultation but the follow up is included and the subsequent appointments (so long as they aren't more ekgs or other ex-rays etc.) are covered by insurance. For all the american copays I've shelled out over the years its nice to finally see a doctor!

Pele with my doctor's new book

Pay your bills even if you cant!

So here I am at a cafe downtown with internet for the first time since Wednesday and the last time till probably next week at least for my personal computer.

Why? Because NET, our internet, tv and phone provider cut off our services.

Why? Because we were 10 days late on paying our bill. Yes only 10 days!!

Why? Because the post office decided to go on strike for about 30 days causing complete mayhem for mail delivery.

So we got our bill late in the mail and past its "due date."

If the bill is past its due date, you can no longer pay it online or at the bank which is how most people pay their bills. You (or the bank) enter in this very long code of 60 or so numbers at the bottom of your bill directly into your online bank account and it finds it and pays it. Its actually a nice little system if were automatic. But, the code doesn't work if it is after a certain "due date." We (stupidly) assumed we would be getting our next bill very soon since the last one was so late and just pay both on top of a late fee that sadly wasn't our fault but inevitable. Instead, NET cut us off which probably took 3.5 seconds. Guess how long it takes to turn back on? 4 BUSINESS DAYS once the money transferred pops up in their account which also can sometimes take DAYS. So here we are. (Yes I know we can set up automatic bill-pay we just ran into problems before attempting to do so and its a bit more complicated than it sounds).

I will tell you, the world doesn't fall apart when you lose internet and tv but it does remind at least us, how dependent we have become.  I work in a design office and when the power goes out, as it randomly does sometimes, everyone goes into panic mode. "But how do we work now? we must go home!" Perhaps considering we are all some type of architect, we could... I don't know DRAW??? But on paper? With a pencil?

Ahh life...

Supporting at-risk youth in Rocinha Favela

Fellow blogger Jim, at Qualidade de Vida is helping with efforts to raise money for at-risk youth in the Rocinha Favela.

Please check out their progress and ideas here on his blog and consider even a small donation, it can go a long way!